Catwalk to Carnival

In good news for racewear, the international fashion direction for spring/summer 2026 reflected a vibrant shift towards self-expression, with designers embracing what US Vogue described as “fashion as motion”. The season marks a reset from minimalism towards personality driven dressing that prioritises both individuality and joyful styling, a perennial hallmark of dressing for racing events.

Whilst this is at play, there are also numerous pop-culture references that will inform some of the looks at Flemington, including the 90s revival brought on by the hugely popular TV series Love Story, about Carilyn Bessette and John F Kennedy Jnr, and the pure joy of individual fashion expression featured in the newly released film The Devil Wears Prada 2.

What are some of the latest trends that will inform our racewear choices this season?

MOVEMENT AND TEXTURE

One of the defining characteristics of the season is the emphasis on designs that move, with fringe, feathers, florals, matte sequins and frothy organza layers creating tactile, kinetic effects. Mathieu Blazy’s acclaimed collections for Chanel showcase draping and fluid silhouettes, including 1930s dropped waists on skirts and dresses that evoke a sense of relaxed elegance. At the same time, Jonathan Anderson at Dior has unleashed unabashed prettiness with corsages, satin rosettes and whimsical minaudières (small clutch bags).

“I always think elegant and simple is best for the races, or really feminine and pretty, in a modern way,” says stylist Nicole Bonython.

Bonython has dressed several clients for the races, such as Royal Ascot, and cites Erdem and Emilia Wickstead as favourite choices for their beautiful prints. “I love the way Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Blazy at Chanel are bringing joy and whimsy back. Even if your budget is not huge, you can go to an op shop and pick up a brooch or four for a jacket lapel, a big, puffy flower corsage, or a vintage pillbox hat. Make the embellishment your own.”

Australian designer Toni Maticevski has used elements such as texture and fringing to great effect in his latest collection, called Ignite. “An idea ignited, fabrics grew lighter, the palette more playful, the techniques more experimental and adventurous,” says Maticevski.

A sense of elegant playfulness that is, of course, perfect for Carnival.

NEW SILHOUETTES AND STANDOUTS

Loose-fitting tunics à la the new Chanel are on trend for a sunny race day, as are tunic tops, which are longer-line and looser than cropped or tight silhouettes. Take a cue from Carolyn Bessette’s New York style, which included chic sleeveless sheath dresses in midi lengths that skim the body rather than accentuate curves, worn with lowheeled slingbacks and headbands. There is also structured tailoring, with off-the-shoulder necklines echoing the runway’s focus on dramatic, feminine silhouettes. “I think it can be a little more extravagant, with mad embellishments, but not if it becomes more like an evening gown,” says Bonython. “And the races are probably not the place for all the oversized tailoring that is around!”

COLOUR REVOLUTION

Pantone’s Cloud Dancer, a creamy white tone, may be the colour of the season, but perhaps save that for Derby Day. Klein Blue, bright fuchsia and hot pink, tomato red, citrus yellow and every shade of green from lime to emerald set the runways ablaze, marking a shift towards vibrancy and positivity and the end of the quiet luxury trend. The bold colour palette of spring/summer 2026 aligns perfectly with racing fashion traditions, with butter yellow a standout colour for Spring Carnival 2026, replacing safe pastels with confident vibrancy (although never say no to rose and blush tones)

MEN’S FASHION

In menswear, Grant Pearce, editor-in-chief of Esquire, is excited about what he sees as a return to elegant tailoring. “What has been interesting over the last couple of seasons is that there is such a strong shift towards tailoring; the whole idea of streetwear has taken a back seat,” he says. “The biggest trend is double-breasted, with a more generous silhouette, like archival Giorgio Armani, and its late 80s, early 90s style; strong shoulders, slightly oversized but still in proportion, pleated pants, and slightly higher waisted. Pearce also notes the return of the tie. “That has really had an impact on the younger generation,” he says. “We saw it on runways at Celine and Dior. The Club tie, the striped tie, the College tie; it’s all a nod to Ralph Lauren. It really is Ralph Lauren’s time right now; that whole preppy take on suiting and dressing in general is huge. JFK Jr in his suits and ties has also had a big influence on that, on dressing up again. The colour palette for spring is certainly lighter, such as a baby blue shirt with a chino-coloured suit, a silk tie, and old-school Moscotstyle sunglasses. That’s the winning combination, a classic suit with an elevated, preppy twist.” 

HATS AND HEADWEAR

If spring/summer 2026 prioritises authenticity, optimism, and personal expression, styles that celebrate individual personality and the pure joy of dressing, then they are the very same principles that inspire millinery. For her wedding to actor Callum Turner in June, Dua Lipa chose a stunning wide-brimmed white hat by Stephen Jones, an inspiration we are sure to see during the racing season. “I’m already seeing lots of increase in brims, I’m making them, and they’re selling straight away,” says Melbourne-based milliner Jill Humphries. “People are already purchasing for this year’s spring carnival because they want specific looks. I think Dua Lipa’s hat translates really well for racewear trends, especially given that she wore all white. I think we’re going to see a lot of that, one block colour, and also lots of bright colours.”

Humphries also notes the whimsy at Chanel and Dior that is affecting customers. “There are a lot of people wanting bead work, diamantes. I’m at the Camberwell market every week buying antique brooches and things and incorporating them into the headwear! People seem to be really loving all the textural elements and dimensions that are coming through in the couture, and it’s translating into our everyday life.” Humphries believes that Dior’s influence will be strong in accessories.

“The elements Anderson has put into the satin shoes, the folded roses, the florals, the incredible corsages. I’ve been doing the same thing with my pill boxes and in my pork pies hats. I think that is what everyone is going for. They just want to be back in that beautiful zone.”

Your next great race-day look could already be in your wardrobe.

Give pre-loved fashion its moment in the spotlight at Fashions on the Field: The Remix, presented by Rack It Club, on TAB Champions Stakes Day, Saturday 7 November. With two categories – Best Dressed: The Remix and Best Suited: The Remix. 

Rewear, rework or restyle a look that tells your story, then take to the stage and show Flemington how it’s done.

Ready to enter? Visit Fashions on the Field: The Remix