BUY TICKETS MERCHANDISE
Ad

History in plain sight

13 August 2025 Written by Andrew Lemon

As a racecourse, Flemington has been around for 185 years. It has always been about the horses. Who will win on the day? And it has always been about a great day out, whatever the weather. Just about everything else has changed around us, but if we look around, we find evidence of Flemington’s storied history.

Start with the Phar Lap statue near the car park entrance to the racecourse enclosure. Next year, 2026, will be the centenary of the birth of this racing legend in New Zealand. Fourteen of Phar Lap’s 37 career wins were here at Flemington, including his 1929 Victoria Derby. At the Melbourne Cup Carnival of 1930 he won on all four days, including the Cup itself. To mark the Australian Bicentenary in 1988, the VRC commissioned this dignified bronze statue from Melbourne sculptor Peter Corlett, and it has been welcoming visitors to Flemington ever since.  

Entering the racecourse reserve, we turn left to the front lawn. Here, a more recent statue, by English sculptor Philip Blacker, commemorates Makybe Diva and her unique achievement of three successive Melbourne Cups: 2003, 2004 and 2005.  

Nearby is a modest horse stall building. This once housed our early turf legend, the mighty Carbine. He won the 1890 Melbourne Cup carrying an all-time record weight. As a sire, he began a thoroughbred dynasty. We find Carbine’s name in the distant pedigree of most racehorses today. This timber stall came to Flemington after the nearby off-course stables of his trainer, Walter Hickenbotham, were demolished.  

We walk the length of the lawn past its rose gardens – and there is history here – towards the public Lawn Stand. Another statue, human this time. We can take a selfie with a life-size Bart Cummings! The champion trainer stands near the entrance to the glass-fronted undercroft to the stand. This precinct is now ‘Saintly Place’, named after the Bart’s former racing stables off-course, at nearby Leonard Crescent. Saintly, the 1996 Cup winner, was a horse of Bart’s own breeding.  

In the Lawn Stand’s Saintly Place we find a permanent display of the trophies accumulated by Bart. Among the treasures are twelve golden trainer trophies for each of his Melbourne Cups.

Up the escalator to the public concourse of the Hill Stand. Here on the huge sloping ceilings are the seven panels of Harold Freedman’s ‘History of Racing’ mural. These were painted during the 1980s and depict hundreds of historic moments, horses, places and individuals, in close detail. The focus is on Australia’s racing history since the first horses came to this continent in 1788. Flemington and the Melbourne Cup are central themes, through to the win of Empire Rose in 1988.

‘History of Racing’ mural by artist Harold Freedman.

Out the back of the Hill Grandstand are railway platforms – part of Flemington history. The branch line to the racecourse was in operation, by steam engine, for the very first Melbourne Cup in 1861. Rolling stock and amenities are more up to date today.   

1936: A crowded platform as people arrive at Flemington by train.

Nearby, a life-size statue of champion jockey Roy Higgins, sculpted by Judith Leman, greets those who arrive by train or via The Hill. Roy won two Melbourne Cups and had a special affinity with Flemington in his long career. 

We take the pathway back down the Hill towards a truly historic part of the course, The Elms. Here we find further evidence of Byron Moore’s enterprise, in the form of solid bluestone retaining walls against The Hill.  

For decades The Elms were at the epicentre of Flemington race day action. Nearby stood the original Birdcage horse stall enclosure, mounting yard and betting ring. Today only the trees and the stonework remain.  

In 1880, The Birdcage was located in The Elms when it was a horse area with scratchings board. (VRC Collection)

Today’s Lawn Stand was built in the late 1950s on the footprint of the long, low 1873 grandstand known as Bagot’s Cowshed. Byron Moore contrived to cut away part of the ground behind it to provide open-air stands without impeding views from The Hill. Remnant parts of the 1880s bluestone foundations can still be found past this end of the Lawn Stand.   

In those days a quarter-ton bell hung suspended in a ten-metre tower by the mounting yard, sounding out at the start of every race. These were the days before on-course race calls or public addresses. As the bell clanged, racegoers hurried to the nearby stands. That starting bell is now on permanent display not far from the Phar Lap statue.   

The elaborate iron gates at the entrance to the Hill Reserve are barely two decades old, but the bluestone walls that define the racecourse boundary, and which extend down Fisher Parade towards the Maribyrnong River, have been standing for 140 years. The incoming Secretary (CEO) of that era, Henry Byron Moore, made sure that the VRC bought freehold land at the back of the crown land racecourse reserve, to allow extra room for Melbourne Cup Day crowds. He was a man of foresight. 

Forty years later in 1924, when Byron Moore was still VRC Secretary, Flemington underwent another transformation, with a new mounting yard, new Birdcage, new grandstand for Members (on the site of today’s Club Grandstand), and a vast open-air betting ring at the rear to accommodate dozens of licensed bookmakers. The so-called Scratchings Tower remains here from that era. This double-storey timber structure was a kind of scoreboard. Up-to-date information was displayed here: winning numbers from the previous race, official numbers of horses scratched from forthcoming events, names of jockeys engaged in the next.  

Seven years later, Flemington’s first electric totalisator buildings were built around the perimeter of the betting ring. They have gone now, but the building at the north-eastern end – much modified – has served in turn as a second Scratchings Tower, a tote building and the racecourse manager’s office. Today it houses a heritage collection and the raceday merchandise shop.  

Beyond the racecourse enclosure, there are more traces of Flemington history we could explore, for this is a vast open space with its training tracks and on-course stables. We could take a look at Chicquita Lodge or see if we could find the Distressed Jockeys’ Lodge. Stories for another expedition, on another day.   

Upcoming race days