Classic meets contemporary

Racing fashion has entered a new era. Royal Ascot’s historic appointment of Daniel Fletcher as its first ever creative director has ignited a global conversation around the evolution of racewear.

Keeping the fashionable crowd on its well-heeled toes, Fletcher’s mission to modernise the Ascot dress codes – while preserving traditional elegance – suggests a broader shift in how race day fashion is approached worldwide. And it begs the bold question: Will this new direction spark a style revolution at this year’s Melbourne Cup Carnival?

Of course, at the heart of the Melbourne Cup Carnival are our own signature style traditions. Derby Day’s classic black-and-white combination, Cup Day’s vibrant colour palette, Oaks Day’s embodiment of ladylike glamour, and Stakes Day’s relaxed yet refined approach are more than mere dress codes – they are a celebration of the event’s rich legacy.

As the Cup Carnival approaches, stylists, celebrities, and racegoers face a thrilling opportunity to reinvent these traditions and rewrite the sartorial playbook.

Fashion hearts are a flutter as trailblazing meets timeless, with the style stakes higher than ever.

Celebrity stylist Suzy Eskander is known for blending traditional race day attire with a modern touch, skillfully navigating the nuance of dress codes beyond the classic norms.

Having dressed high-profile clients including Emma Freedman, Lucia Damon and Demi Brereton (for this year’s Royal Ascot), Eskander says this year’s racing style should embrace a fresh perspective that is less predictable and gives tradition a trend-led jolt.

“I love styling for the Melbourne Cup Carnival – I love the tradition, millinery and the themes of each day, combined with a touch of modernity, fresh interpretations of the dress codes and styling combinations,” she says.

“I focus on integrating contemporary accessories like modern heels, sunglasses, jewellery and statement handbags to conceptualise the themes I want to interpret,” Eskander explains.

But the stylist also cautions that less is sometimes still more.

“As a general rule, to modernise a look, you need to style it back and not overdo it with too many colour combinations, accessories, or elements that compete for attention,” Eskander says.

“Highlight one standout feature and let the rest of your outfit complement it. For instance, if you’re wearing a wide-brim hat, keep the rest of your look simple and structured. If you’re experimenting with bold colour clashes, avoid excessive frills and details. Alternatively, if you opt for cut-outs and shorts, balance the
look with a classic pillbox hat to maintain a touch of conservative elegance.”

Courtney Moore, who has been competing in Fashions on the Field for over a decade, is known for bringing her unique vision to race day fashion. Having participated since 2013, Moore is well-versed in balancing traditional race day elegance with modern trends.

“I love to examine current trends and draw inspiration from runways in Paris and Milan, as well as my favourite social media influencers,” she says.

Two standout moments for Moore include her 2015 Derby Day look – a striking one sleeve, laser-cut dress paired with a chic boater hat – and her 2016 ensemble, which earned her the title of national Fashions on the Field winner.

“The top was a standout, and my mother designed a stunning hand-beaded hat with cutouts to match. The millinery and top combination made the outfit truly unique.”

For those looking to add a contemporary edge to their race-day attire, Moore advises focusing on millinery, accessories, and hairstyles. “Bows are on-trend this season and can be styled both modern and classic,” she says.

Considering the current cost-of-living crisis, it’s no surprise that there’s a rising demand for racewear that offers durability and versatility. By translating contemporary trends for the track, racegoers have more potential to repurpose their ensembles for various occasions – from workwear to weekends and even weddings.

Eskander forecasts several seasonal trends will elevate trackside glamour to dazzling new heights this year.

“This season brings a resurgence of lace, velvet, and metallics, adding a touch of sophistication to any outfit,” she says. “Sheer fabrics are also making waves, with semi-sheer pants and long blazers being perfect for Derby Day, especially when paired with a wide-brim hat.”

“The 60s mod look is back, featuring micro minis and classic pillbox hats, while dresses with hoods offer a fresh twist. The ballet-core trend is also strong, with delicate lace, embroidery, and wispy tulle skirts, complemented by stylish and practical kitten heels.

“In millinery, expect to see continued popularity of rosettes and bows, alongside sleek fedoras and sculptural pieces with unique fabrications. Wide-brimmed cloches and minimalistic thick wrapped bands are also set to make an impact. I’m also hoping for a rise in cowboy hats, reflecting the growing Western trend,” she adds.

So, whether you’re waltzing in with a whimsical wide-brim or stepping out in a sleek, sculpted silhouette, revel in the racewear reinvention this year where trailblazing meets tradition.